Please note, that categorizing the blades as Field, Trim, Brush etc. is only an indication for intended use of the described blade. In practical application the use of a blade can overlap or vary depending on various conditions, needs and the user's tool sense.
#2 - Field, Lawn
Classical Iranian blade pattern. Made in Austria in 1983. We recommend these light blades for sensible folks and for children. This model is one of the lightest weight-per-length we sell.
#3 - 50 cm - Trim, Brush; 70 cm - Field
Made in Germany for the Belgian market more than 40 years ago. Strong blade with fine edge, initially not well suited for cutting of fibrous material. Fits well on straight, one-grip snath.
#11 - Tough
These were made in the late 1970s for Argentina, where they served as the general-purpose blade. This fits somewhere in the "ditch" category. For the economically-oriented mower, these blades are a bargain.
#12 - Strong Ditch, Brush
Made by Redtenbacher in Austria in early 80s for the French market. Definitely a strong blade.
#13 - Tough Brush
Suitable for trimming and a medium brush work.
#16 - Field
Made in Germany 40+ years ago.
#20 - Universal
Wide but light, an excellent quality, made more then 60 years ago.
#21 - Universal
These represent about as ideal a weight/length/strength relationship as any scythe blade, made from 30 to 40 years ago.
#24 - Trim
Excellent quality, produced in South Germany more than 60 years
#31 - Medium Brush, Trim
Stronger than necessary for “average” scythe tasks.
Made in Austria in the early ‘60s. This is older, better quality than I had listed previously.
#32 - Strong
Even though the label claims these to be a product of a Danish company, they were made during the ‘60s by the same (German) enterprise which forged the blades we list as #3, #16, #21, #28 and #30. Intended for the Danes who -- relative to most other scythe-using cultures -- preferred relatively heavy blades, this is one of the strongest blades we presently list, and among a small handful of the best as far as quality of workmanship is concerned.
#35 - Trim, Universal
A French model made by Schroekenfux (Austria) in 1982.
The blades listed from #100 and on were all made in Italy.
#100 - Light, Universal
One of the patterns preferred in Turkey, where heavy blades seem to have been a taboo, this is the lightest per cm of our listings. For that reason it may be (along with #2) the best for children. It is, however, stiffer than #2 and, although we do not recommend it as a "bush" blade, in experienced and/or sensible hands, green poplar, willow, alder, spruce, fir etc. saplings can be cut with it. All in all, I think that this sweetheart of a blade is worth its weight in precious stones...
#103 - Field
Light, yet plenty strong, with the curved point, current Falci production.
#106 - Ditch, medium brush
Special edition blade"Federaz. Consorzi Agrari Roma", made in Italy by Falci company around 1980.
#108 - Trim
Also current Falci production, nice light trimming blade.
#122 - Heavy brush, Bush
This blade is ready for some tough work.
The Sickle Descriptions
#1 -These are from Turkey (although we obtain them from their importer to Germany). They are lightweight, forged sickles, and fully serviceable -- even if not quite on par with today's Italian production, nor the old ones made in Germany. (Smooth edged, forged, off-set handle)
#3 - Serrated edged, with out an off-set handle, made by the Falci company of Italy
A few general hints:
Because the teeth on serrated sickles point toward the handle they are used with the "to-the-right-and-toward-the-mower" motion, while the material to be cut is usually held in the opposite hand. For people with less sharpening skill (or an inclination to develop one) a toothed sickle is probably a better choice -- especially if intended primarily for harvesting cereals.
The smooth edged models are more versatile, in that they can be used to cut grass/"weeds" in the conventional scythe-like "from-right-to-left" stroke as well as with the towards-you-and-to-the-right motion, more typical while harvesting grains.
For best results the smooth edges of forged sickles should be maintained by periodic peening, rather than fileing or grinding.